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When it’s looking good, you can serve it right away, or you can leave it on the lowest heat for a while – the flavour will only improve. About halfway through, nick a bit, taste it, and correct the seasoning if you need to. Let it crisp up again, then repeat the process, and – importantly – keep repeating it over a period of about 20 minutes, until it’s golden, super- crispy and delicious. Use a fish slice to fold those lovely crispy bits back into the mash, then pat and flatten everything down again. Now we get into the rhythm of the secret to good bubble & squeak.

Season well with sea salt and black pepper, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until a lovely golden crust starts forming on the bottom.

There’s no need to chop anything first, as now we’re going to mash it all up with a potato masher into a nice, flat, even layer.

Pick in the fresh herb leaves and let them crisp up for a minute, then add the potatoes, veg, and any leftover chestnuts you’ve got.

Put a 28cm non-stick frying pan on a medium heat with 1 tablespoon of oil and the butter (or, even better, any leftover dripping you have in the fridge).